Hello logging railroaders!!!
After spending so much time on my Resita loco, I’ll switch to a smaller scale project. I just started work on a new module for my Hon30 forestry railroad. I look forward to exhibit the layout again in March 2018, so it would be great to show something new. Once the module is done, I’ll return to the garden railroad project. Promised 😉
The new module will be 80x20cm, just the same size as my station-module and connects right to the left of it. The module will feature a sawmill-scene. Central piece of the module is the little Faller mill. I really like the model, but I’ve to kitbash it, to make it fit on the small modules.
So the water wheel will move from the back to the side of the mill. This makes the whole mill assembly 3cm narrower, so it will fit on the module with a run-by-track in front of the mill. I first made a paper moke-up to see if the clearance to the rail is okay, before I started with the building.
On the side of the main building, I closed the lower door and window, since the water wheel will be moved to this area. I pre-assembled the parts with tape to check the clearance to the rails again. Once I was sure, I started painting the plastic parts and assembling the sawmill structures.
It took me some time to get all the parts painted, weathered and build up. As usual, I build the houses without the base. I also decided to mirror the far right shed-section to make it fit better into the scenery.
With the sawmill building done, I can now start with the woodwork on the Casani-boxes.
Will be continued soon 😉
the last work is done on the Resita and the loco is ready to run.
Beside the paint on the cab, I added some last details as well, like the oil pump on the right hand cylinder or the sucker-pipe to take water. I used a white crayon to add the washed trim on the water tanks and bunker.
After the airbrush-weathering, I added the last details to give here the prototypical look of a well used Romanian logging loco. The number plates are custom etched, as the kit is delivered with 764-484 plates.
And here she is, finished and ready for first service – CFF 764-467 of the Cimpul Cetatii line in the 1992 version.
The loco was finished on Dec. 23rd. so I was able to run here during the annual X-mas-steam-up the next day.
Since the loco was finished, I took a break (hard to believe) and I’ll start with finishing the cars next week. So stay tuned, the Cimpul Cetatii story will be continued
this might be the forelast report until the Resita is finished. After the successful test runs under steam, I installed the RC-components. I use 4 channels for reverse gear, steam valve, whistle and brake.
The brake was added subsequently, after I noticed that I need one to slow down the train on downward grades. As on the prototype, the brake acts on the two center wheelsets. It’s connected to a RC-servo below the cab floor.
As the body shell arrived, the full size and dimension of the loco become clear. As on the frame, I spend some extra work to the cab to add more details and get some closer to the prototype. This includes rivet-detail on cab and coal bunker as well as the correct shaped back of the bunker.
This was one of the bigger challenges. The left photo shows the difference between the single bend version on the model, vs. the more prototypical S-curve, shown on the left. This is another reason, why I extended the frame, as it now fit’s to the correct cab.
The new bunker-back was bend from steel-sheet. As on the cab, I added rivet’s where they were found on the prototype (on cab and bunker, while the water tanks are welded on all Resita). I use a std. circular board as drilling template, solder the brass rivets from the back and finally filed them flush.
The last remaining work is paint, plates, weathering and lots of details…
I often read about the live steam hobby, that this is something for “old men”…
Well, our little daughter (3) is too young to know about that, so she just enjoys, that she has fun with. Running dads live steam trains for example…
I’m glad to have more than one live steam loco, so we won’t get in trouble.
I’m totally in love with logging railroads, mostly for the worn out and cluttered look of the locos as well as the whole railroads. Clean and shiny museum railroad locos are missing the special flair and charm of the railroads when they are still in service back in the 80′ and 90′.
So I grabbed the airbrush and converted my fresh painted Resita…
… into a well used 1992 Resita, close to the chosen prototype 764-467.
Once the paint was dry, the Resita made its first run under steam and own power! An important milestone is reached!
Now that everything works fine, it’s time to lift a small secret of my loco, which was not named before. I installed a homemade “SloMo-device”.
Technically, a SloMo is a simple friction-/flywheelmotor as it is used in toy cars. The flywheel and gear reduction adds inertia and momentum to the small-scale steam loco. This leads into fantastic slow running performance.
My SloMo rides on the 3rd wheelset of the loco and is hidden by the dummy firebox.
Once I got the RC-components installed, it’s time for some more detailed test runs.
Happy regards, Gerd
Even on Christmas, here’s a small update for you.
I disassembled the chassis and sand-blasted all parts, which need to get painted. I use spray-paints from Metaflux, wich I dry in the oven at 80°C for about 30 minutes. I’ve a small oven in my workshop, for larger parts as the frame or boiler, I’ve to use our regular kitchen oven. I’m happy that my wife has no issues with that.
Once the loco was assembled again, I installed the steam valves and pipes.
Since the gas-part is still missing, I did some test runs with air. Before I’ll steam-up the loco for the first time, I’ll spend some special attention to the loco, as long as the paint is fresh and clean.
which all of you peacefull christmas days as well as a good start into the next year.
Stay healthy and keep on model railroading !!
I assembled all the rods and valve gear and finally got the loco running on air !!
It’s a wonderful feeling to see a new build steam loco/engine coming alive. There are some small issues and a few parts still missing, but at all, the loco is coming together step by step.
Beside the chassis, I spend some time on the boiler toppings. The Resita has 3 domes on the boiler, which should be closer together and at least, closer to the stack, as it is done in the kit. Since I want to any changes on the boiler itself, I tried to make the best out of it with some tricks. Moving the square sand dome in the center is simple, but the rear steam dome sit’s around the safety valve.
So I soldered a piece of brass into the hole and drilled new one 8mm behind, just at the edge of the dome itself. So I was able to move the dome 8mm to the front as well as the sand dome 4mm. The distance between the domes is close to the prototype. They still should be closer to the front of the boiler, but it’s okay for me.
At least, I made dome rings from brass tube as well as dome saddles from 0.6mm brass sheet. Some minor additions, but they really adds to the over-all look of the boiler.
Theses were more or less the last big changes at the moment, so I’m close to come to the painting part.
the Resita loco is rolling!! But still not from own power. Last weekend I assembled the drivers and installed them in the frame. I had to wait for replacement axles, since the delivered ones were too short. Thanks to the great support of Mr. Reppingen at this point.
The chassis of the Resita features four axles, which allows side-move for several millimeters. The main shaft from 4mm stainless steel is installed in the outside frame as usual, but the wheels are riding on bronze tubes, which can slide over the steel axle. A screw in the steel axle transmits the power to the tube.
With this setup, the loco can run on 2′ radius tracks. But it looks odd with the huge engine on such a tiny curve. Which leads me directly into some thinking about minimum-radius :
The prototype uses Klien-Lindner-axles on the first and fourth wheelset and is able to run on 30m radius curves. Calculating the prototype minimum radius down to 15mm scale, the tightest curve for my model should be 5′ radius (!). Nearly all garden layouts in my area are built with LGB-R3 which has a 4′ radius, which will be used on my future railroad as well.
On the wider curves, the full side-movement of all wheelsets isn’t necessary, so I locked the center drivers with some washers. As on the prototype, only the end wheelsets are moving. this setup works even fine on 3′ radius, which is the smallest one I can run my Shays on.
Next I assembled the cylinders and mounted them temporary to the frame. The last photo shows the reshaped rear cylinder covers.
Since the drivers were already in place, I adjusted the cranks and installed the coupling rods. The loco is rolling very smooth and I look forward to get the valve gear attached soon as well for some test-runs on compressed air.
Last job this weekend were the cylinder top plates from brass sheet and the steam-feed-pipes bend from 8mm round-brass.
Let’s see if the loco is running next week 😉
Welcome back to another report on my Resita-build.
I spend some work on the cylinder covers. Comparing the stock cylinders with the prototype photo shows some differences I like to negotiate.
First I added another 6 screw-heads to each of the large covers. I set a second set of holes, tapped them for M2-screws. The screws got cut off on the back and filed flush with the cover.
The smaller covers above for the piston-valves were made from cnc-milled parts. The original piece is screwed into a hole of the steam-chest. I made a threaded-plug two close the hole with a smaller threaded-bore inside. Now I can screw the new covers into place with the center-bolt.
Now to the top cover of the steam chest. I made new ones from a piece of brass to make them 4mm higher than before. The new covers are “hand-cranked” on my regular mill, which was actual faster than cnc-milling.
I used a single block of brass, milled the first cover, turned the piece over and milled the second cover. I sawed the block in half and milled each cover to final shape. Now the cylinder is much closer to the prototype look.
Next I’ll finish the rear covers as well and start to assemble the cylinders.